The Dirt:
The temperature is dropping, the leaves are changing, and to the confusion of the rest of the world, spring attire is on the minds of fashionistas across the globe. “Green”, or eco-friendly, fashion is part of the growing movement of sustainable design. It’s hard to imagine a pair of jeans melting the Polar Ice Cap, but according to EarthPledge, more than “8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles and 25% of the world’s pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton”. Through the use of organic materials and responsible production practices, designers are reducing the environmental impact of their clothing while remaining fashion forward.
While “fashion week” is likely to conjure images of New York or Paris, designers on the West Coast are leading the [eco-friendly] way and getting noticed. Portland Fashion Week (PFW) (October 8 - October 12) showcases independent designers bringing green fashion to the mainstream and makes the entire event environmentally responsible. In 2007, Portland was honored with the “Country’s #1 Sustainable City” award at a Mayoral conference after the city hosted the first fully sustainable fashion week, featuring runways and sets made from eco-friendly materials, and environmentally-safe products used to style models. For 2008, the show features all printing on recycled paper, energy efficient LED lighting and organic food and wine. Portland Fashion Week also cuts hefty fees by utilizing corporate sponsorship to stage shows for a nominal fee, allowing emerging designers the chance to shine.
Designers
One PFW designer, Lizzie Parker, uses organic cotton knits and bamboo to make comfortable clothes with flattering silhouettes. From basic tanks to the Spring 2009 collection’s flirty tango skirt, belted, layered or unadorned, the result is effortless chic.
Alula, another Seattle-based brand, has a vibrant look with an emphasis on tailoring and detail. The collaborative effort of Katrina Thomson, Chelsey Burton, and Beth O’Leary, Alula, hints at a retro influence while maintaining a fresh look. The Spring 2009 collection runs the gamut from sweet bow accents and a princess neckline on a rose colored dress, to the eye-popping blue of a simple tunic inspired by the colors and fabrics the designers “dream of… when the grey, overcast Seattle days start to get [them] down.” The team uses organic fabrics and natural dyeing techniques and is moving toward low-impact design and manufacturing processes.
Designer Modi Soondarotok returns to her native Thailand for production of her brand IDOM, hand selecting materials like hand-loomed silks and cottons which promote sustainable practices, and personally meeting with the seamstresses who sew the garments work from home rather than in factories, which allows them more time with their families. Inspired by Modi’s international travels and her interests in architecture and painting, the label features signature loosely-draped dresses with sari-like textures in rich colors, as well as more tailored pieces with bold patterns.
Mewv Sustainables, a division of Saffrona, takes sustainability to its purest form- using materials like hemp, tencel and bamboo with 97%-100% organic fibers. Since metal and plastic are not sustainable, the brand creates designs that do not need hooks, zippers or buttons. Recently, it expanded to include fuller-figured women with fashions now available for sizes 0 through 28.
Sustainable fashion isn’t limited to apparel. Form & Fauna will launch their Spring 2009 shoe collection at the Designers & Agents show in Los Angeles later this month. The California-based company uses biodegradable polyurethane, organic cotton and hemp for uppers, and wedges and platforms are made of second-generation alder and bamboo. Detailing on flats and heels in a variety of bright, fun colors includes items such as coconut shell, brass rivets, and even pennies.
More Than A Trend
Though some critics suggest green fashion is just another trend destined to go the way of jellies and shoulder pads, eco-friendly design continues to garner attention. Lucky Magazine has added an eco-friendly sourcebook to its website, a list of “environmentally conscious, utterly stylish labels.” Elle Magazine recently dismissed the negative stereotype of sustainable clothing by declaring there is “nary a burlap sack in sight” among the “unapologetically chic, fashion-forward designs” they feature. Season 5 of the television show Project Runway included an eco-friendly challenge that saw contestants create cocktail dresses from environmentally conscious materials. The United Nations has recognized the potential of green fashion, including the topic in the second edition of its YouthXChange Training Kit for Sustainable Consumption As Portland Fashion Week designers will prove, comfort and style need not be sacrificed in the name of sustainability. Soon, eco-friendly might soon be everyone’s style.
Where:
For more information on Portland Fashion Week, visit the PFW website. To view the featured designers’ collections, visit the Lizzie Parker website, visit the Alula website, visit the IDOM website, visit the Mewv Sustainables website, or visit the Form & Fauna website.